What's it worth to you?

Let's get one thing out of the way. All radio controlled vehicles, no matter how advanced, really are toys. We call our full-scale cars, motorcycles, snowmobiles, jetskis, and boats "big boy's toys" (Or big girl's toys, there are girls and women in this hobby too,) and radio controlled cars and trucks are no different. They engage us in recreational play, and we have fun with them. That makes them toys.

The reason the word "toy" is so annoying to many hobbyists is the inferrence by those that don't participate in the hobby that such play is childish and immature. Nothing could be further from the truth. The ability to play, to participate in an activity for the sheer fun of it, is an important element in a healthy lifestyle.

For the purpose of this article, the term "Toy R/C" is used only to differentiate between low performance "throwaway" models and the high-performance quality vehicles most popular in the hobby.

Toy Grade Radio Controlled Vehicles

Toy grade radio controlled vehicles are generally the least expensive possible R/C solution, at the sacrifice of performance and optional upgrades:

• Structural parts (chassis, drive train, and suspension) are molded almost exclusively of heavier plastics.
• Mechanisms requiring complex construction, such as steering, suspension, and speed-controlling mechanisms, are simplified to reduce the number of parts and reduce assembly costs. All electronic mechanisms- receiver, speed controlling electronics, and steering electronics - are combined into a single circuit board rather than individual replaceable components.
• The transmitters and receivers of toy grade vehicles come in a "fixed" radio frequency, usually either 27mhz or 49mhz AM.* Since the transmitter signal has to be specific for the car you're driving, this means you can only run two of them together.**
• The electric motors are non-servicable closed-can motors, are integrated into the molded plastic chassis, and can't be modified or upgraded. Often the pinion gear is pressed onto the motor shaft.
• Toy grade R/C's are designed to use either battery packs produced by the same manufacturer or standard alkaline/rechargable batteries, limiting the battery options that can be used (such as racing quality battery packs.)
• Manufacturers of these vehicles seldom offer repair support; if it stops functioning or gets broken, replacing the entire unit is usually the only option. Toy grade R/C vehicles are produced with a planned obsolescence; If it breaks, buy another one.
• Steering and speed controls are not proportional as in hobby grade R/C's. The vehicle will steer to full left, right, or center, and power is either full on or off, or a variable switch mimicking a two or three-speed power source.
• The suspension is generally a fixed configuration, cemented or pressed into the chassis, and there is seldom a way to alter suspension qualities in any way. Shock absorbers consist only of springs on a shaft (if they exist) and hydraulic dampening (oil-filled shocks) are never present.
• Transmission units are a fixed configuration that cannot be altered, upgraded, or repaired. Drive shafts, wheels, and tires are usually fixed configurations and cannot be upgraded or replaced. Most toy grade R/C wheels are pressed on the shafts and cannot be removed. A diffential is seldom found in these vehicles.
• For all of the previous reasons, there is very little that can be done to enhance performance or upgrade any part of the vehicle.

So why do people buy them? The reduced cost - often ranging from $10 to $40 - combined with targeted marketing, flashy packaging, and visual and auditory effects that have nothing to do with the performance of the vehicle play a large part in the success of toy grade R/C vehicles. Additionally, like the subtitle of this article says, many consumers simply aren't interested in spending more than $50 for a toy that may fail to hold their interest for more than a month or two.

Hobby Grade Vehicles

"Back in the day" before there were any kits or production vehicles, modeling enthusiasts naturally wished their models could fly or drive with the same realistic effects that they so painstakingly put into their scale re-creations. This is the requirement of today's radio control vehicle enthusiasts: that an R/C vehicle drives and handles as much like its full-scale counterpart as possible. Hobby grade vehicle manufacturers strive to meet the needs of this demanding market.

• The primary structural components of hobby grade R/C's - the chassis and shock towers - are made of the lightest and strongest materials possible, depending on the application. These can include fiberglas, graphite composite, aluminum, or other innovative materials.
• Suspension parts are usually made of high-impact plastics or graphite composite materials for reduced weight and maximum strength. A wide array of front and rear suspension adjustments are always available, including toe-in, toe-out, camber/caster adjustments, and rear anti-squat options.
• Electronic parts - steering/throttle servos, receivers, and speed controls - are always individual components, allowing replacement and full customization.
• Hobby grade R/C's are designed to accept industry standard electric motors and nitro engines, allowing full customization and easy replacement.
• Transmitters and receivers offer fully proportional control over steering and speed control/throttle functions, allowing smooth and subtle control over the vehicle, as well as fine tuning adjustments both on the vehicle and on the transmitter. With proportional control, the slightest movement at the transmitter is received by the vehicle with extreme accuracy, as opposed to the "full left/full right/on-off" reactivity of toy grade R/C's.
• Radio frequencies are available in a wide array of AM, FM, PCM, and other frequencies wih multiple individual channels on each, allowing many vehicles to run together without interferring with each other's signals. The transmitter and receiver crystals are easily removed and replaced in the event two R/C's have the same band and frequency.
• Transmissions come in a wide array of configurations. Years of manufacturer research have perfected the operation of these transmissions to optimize the performance of each vehicle.
• Incorporated in the transmissions are a wide selection of differentials, including the "ball" differential, the spider gear differential, the torsen-type diff, and others. The differential is a traction system that allows the outer wheel to roll faster then the inner wheel in a corner, reducing the traction that would normally be lost if both wheels where rolling at the same rate.
• Two- and four-wheel drive configurations are available on various kits. The 4WD models can be chain, belt, or shaft-driven.
• Clutching systems are present in the drive trains to increase traction on hard accelleration and improve performance.
• Drive shafts are often hardened steel or high-impact universal outdrive shafts, insuring constant drive output throughout the suspension range.
• Wheels, wheel hubs, and tires are manufactured to industry standards allowing complete replacement and customization, including full bearings at all points.
• Bodies are super thin and light molded clear lexan for reduced weight. These bodies are intended to be painted from the inside; an entire sub-industry has sprung up around R/C body painting alone!
• Shock absorber systems include hydraulic dampening and variable spring weights, as well as optional mounting holes at various points along the A-arms and shock towers to fine-tune the suspension like their full-scale counterparts. Shock oils come in different weights to fine tune dampening effects.
• Hobby grade vehicles come in kit form or RTR (Ready To Run) allowing hobbyists to not only choose the level at which they enter into the hobby but also customize their model completely.
• A wide array of original manufacturer and third-party hop-up and replacement parts are available to further enhance performance and customization.

Of course these are just the highlights; the features of hobby grade R/C's are as individual as the people that run them, and the manufacturers are constantly incorporating research and technology into each new model they produce. This tehnology dos not come without a proportionate cost; hobby grade R/C kits can range from $150 to $800 or more.

What to Look For

How do you know if you're looking at a hobby grade or toy grade vehicle? There are a couple things to look for before making your purchase:

• Where to look. You generally won't find hobby-grade vehicles at large department stores, toy stores, or electronics stores. These will almost always be toy-grade R/C's. Buy from a hobby shop or one of the online hobby distributors listed on RC-Resources.com.
• Modular construction. If you break a small part of the suspension, will you have to replace the entire chassis or is it a small and relatively isolated part to replace? Are the electronic components replacable with some other brand, or will only this manufacturer's part fit? Can you fit any tires, wheels, or other option parts for this scale of model on it? The ability to modify the vehicle with the wide selection of third-party parts available is important in makng your choice.
• Look closely at the transmitter. The type of transmitter that comes with the vehicle is often a good indicator of what's gone into the model. Does it have several dials and indicators besides the steering wheel and throttle trigger (or the two gimballs, in the case of some transmitters?) Does the antenna extend and also unscrew from the transmitter body? If so, you're probably looking at a mid- to high-quality hobby grade vehicle. If the model comes in kit form and doesn't have a radio at all, it is most likely a hobby-grade kit as discussed in the RTR vs. Kit section of this article.
• Research parts availability. Whether you're more comfortable buying replacement parts from your local hobby shop or from the Internet, look around for suppliers for parts and upgrades for the vehicle. There's nothing more disheartening than having to shelf your ride for a month waiting for parts to come in!
• Manufacturer reputation. Visit some of the many radio control discussion boards listed on the RC-Resources site and ask others about their experience with the manufacturer of the RC you are considering. If you have problems, can you depend on the company for customer support? A manufacturer who stands by their products is important in making your decision.
• Ask qustions! There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers. No matter how much money you have to spend, there's no sense in wasting it, and asking questions is the best way to avoid it.

There are many vehicles somewhere in between toy and hobby grade. In an attempt to bring costs down on R/C vehicles, some manufacturers have tried to bridge the gap between the simple toy grade R/C's and the more expensive hobby grade kits which excel in performance, speed, and handling. If you're on a tight budget, don't be afraid to consider some of these "in-between" vehicles.

So what's it worth to you? How much time and money do you forsee investing in this hobby, and how long do you think it might hold your interest?

While you ponder this question, let's compare RC kits, which you build from scratch yourself, and RTR's,*** which are ready to run right out of the box.